The makings of a true sneaker icon
Introduction:
By the time Michael Jordan entered his fifth season with the Bulls in 1990, his path to on-court greatness was undeniable. Chartering up 92 three-pointers on the hardwoods and achieving his second MVP award, MJ quickly became an unstoppable force on the hardwoods and in the hearts of air enthusiasts. Little did we know that this success would be pre-empted; dribbling under the nose of what was set to be MJ’s first championship win the following year.
In the same breath, the Beaverton franchise took this new era as another exciting opportunity for success. Creating a decade-defining sneaker that would not only aid exceptional court play but would be part of a seismic shift in street style. And of course, this would take shape as the iconic Air Jordan 5.
Acclaimed for its rich court and lifestyle-apt aesthetic, the Air Jordan 5 was a novelty of its time. Marrying new pastures of design with like-minded performance ability - the AJ5 was arguably the shoe that aided Michael Jordan’s seminal reign.
To celebrate its 35th anniversary, we briefly look back at Air Jordan 5 in all its glory - as one of the most sought-after sneakers of our generation.
Design Process:
While the Air Jordan 5 possessed similar grail-like qualities to its early predecessors (AJ3, AJ4) its technical execution was in a league of its own. Although it would be difficult to reinvent the status quo, Tinker Hatfield was steady in his designing streak, reverting to Jordan’s ferocious court play. Likening it to the infamous P-51 Mustang fighter jet for a healthy dose of inspiration.
Sketch of the AJ5 design, showcasing Hatfield’s fighter jet inspiration
Starting with the uppers, Hatfield opted for a durable nubuck leather, offering a buttery contrast to its mesh-induced sidewalls and toe box which also help aid in on-foot breathability and aerodynamic function.
The mid-rise also features a thick welded nylon tongue, delivering some iridescent charm with its 3M reflective feature and a lace toggle to provide an additional lockdown element.
Shark-tooth accents were inscribed into the front of the impact-induced polyurethane midsole, mirroring the nickname given to the WW2 fighter model. At the same time, ‘Nike Air’ logos embellished the rears with some brand nostalgia. The cushioning visible Air sole unit in the forefoot was paired with a rather unconventional translucent outsole - the first of its kind on a Jordan shoe that would become a staple for the brand moving forward.
Design inspired by the WW2 Fighter Jet Model
With its cutting-edge design, the Air Jordan 5 debuted in 1990 in four striking colorways, each making its own statement: White/ Black/Fire Red ( the only OG model feature the ‘23’ embroidery), White/Fire Red/Black, Black/ Metallic Silver, and the revered ‘Grape’ colourway, retailing at a $125, $15 greater than the Air Jordan 4 variant.
The Cavalier Game:
Michael Jordan wearing the Air Jordan 5 'Fire Red' while achieving 69 points against the Cleveland Cavaliers
MJ also demonstrated one pretty illustrious moment on the court whilst wearing the Air Jordan 5s. On March 28, 1990, the court assassin scored a career-high 69 points against the Cleveland Cavaliers, wearing the iconic ‘Fire Red’ colourway. Despite leading the Bulls to victory with a rather slim four-point lead, it was the start of great things that were yet to come for the Bulls dynasty.
From Beaverton to Bel-Air:
Spotlighted in various endorsements within it is 35-year tenure, the Air Jordan 5 played its cultural role on our screens, featuring on the feet of Will Smith during his ‘90s sitcom stint on the Fresh Prince of Bel Air, where he rocked the Air Jordan 5 ‘Grape’ colourway throughout a range of episodes.
Image of the Air Jordan 5 'Bel Air' (2013)
To celebrate this unforgettable moment in sneaker history, Nike released the ‘Bel Air 5s in 2013, which pay homage to the iconic show, taking design cues from the show’s sequence title colours. Fast forward 5 years to 2018, the Beaverton franchise would then remaster its iconic ‘Grape’ colourway for Will Smith’s 50th birthday. This limited release was designed to be worn without laces, featuring no eyelets.
Image of the Air Jordan 5 'Fresh Prince' (2018)
Spike Lee Commercials:
The Air Jordan 5’s legacy as a cultural icon owes much to Spike Lee’s iconic commercials featuring his character Mars Blackmon. These ads masterfully blended humour, basketball, and street style, elevating the sneaker from performance gear to a symbol of cultural expression.
By linking the Jordan 5 to urban culture and artistic innovation, the commercials cemented its status as a trailblazer in merging sports and lifestyle, inspiring generations of sneaker enthusiasts worldwide.
Timeless Collaborations and Iterations:
Inundated with a slew of unforgettable, collaborations, designs and colour palettes over the years, the Air Jordan 5 has certainly been making its rounds on our shelves and sneaker rotations, let’s take a look at some of our favourite iterations to date:
Air Jordan 5 Retro ‘Laney’ (2000)
Air Jordan 5 Retro RA ‘Laser’ (2007)
Air Jordan 5 T23 ‘Tokyo’ (2011)
Air Jordan 5 Retro Supreme ‘ Desert Camo’ (2015)
Air Jordan 5 x DJ Khaled ‘We The Best’ 'Sail' (2018)
Air Jordan 5 Retro x PSG 'Black' (2018)
Air Jordan 5 ‘Michigan’ (2019)
Air Jordan 5 x Trophy Room ‘Ice Blue’ (2019)
Off-White x Air Jordan 5 SP 'Muslin' (2020)
From its innovative design to its cultural resonance, the Air Jordan 5 is more than a sneaker; it’s a symbol of excellence. As we celebrate its 35th anniversary, it’s clear that the AJ5 will continue to inspire athletes, artists, and sneaker enthusiasts for years to come. What’s your favourite AJ5 moment?
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